(more Gideon Bienstock from Clos Saron) Where Renaissance is all grandeur of things past, Gideon's place was almost back on the kibbutz. Vines surround his house. He's a farmer who borrows from all philosophies. I'd be interested to see the soil in the heat and drought of summer, after the flowers drain from life. Gideon adds a smallish amount of sulfur at the fermenter and then never again. ' At first I was nervous the way I was about not inoculation. To some degree it is dangerous. When we released an 03 pinot, we had a party. I was pouring it, tasted it, I realized it had a problem, lactic spoilage, the finish was this mousy, dirty. We pulled it off the market--all 20 cases---and started to watch. After four months the wine gradually started to recover. We served it two weeks ago, we sold every bottle. I began to see that sometimes the wines show problems immediately but so far, everything has rebounded. At times I've thought am I crazy? Don't I want the safety of another shot so there's not bottle variation? For me the answer is seeing the wine before and after, sulfur would clarify the...